Paulet Island (PAUL)

63˚35’S, 55˚47’W

Magnetic declination: 11.0˚E

Inventory subarea: NE

Inventory acronym: PAUL

Location — History — Features

A circular island, about 1.0 mile in diameter, lying 3 miles SE of Dundee Island, off the NE end of the Antarctic Peninsula. Paulet is the site of an enormous Adélie penguin colony. The island was discovered by Ross’s British expedition (1839-43), and named by Ross for a captain in the Royal Navy. Paulet consists of a distinct volcanic cone, 1,158 feet high. The landing beach on the N side of the island contains rounded, mainly spherical boulders and pebbles of basalt and scoriae. Well to the E of the landing beach is a memorial cross marking the grave of one of the members of the Nordenskjøld expedition who died here, and the remains of the hut in which these explorers overwintered may be found above the landing beach. Beyond and above the hut is a substantial ovoid-shaped lake, several hundred feet long and about half that width, which appears to be in the crater of the old volcano. The ridge above the landing (upon which the remains of the hut are located) is made up entirely of rounded boulders, pebbles, and even bomb-shaped fragments. This ridge slopes up gently to a steeper hillside leading around the lake.

There are many Adélies around the lake and on the elevated ridge between the lake and a basaltic stack NE of the landing beach. This stack contains sheathbill and shag nests, and sits opposite a large shag colony that covers a steep ridge on an interior hillside. Beyond this rock stack is a flat terrace that forms an apron around the N and NE side of the island. Enormous numbers of Adélies nest on this apron and on the ridges above. The ground surface consists of cinders and pebbles in a muddy, guano-rich soil. The steep ridge that houses the large shag colony is underlain by solid basalt. Angular slabs of thin cryoturbated (broken and churned by freezing and thawing) basalt are common, and were used by the Nordenskjøld expedition members to build their emergency hut.

On site is an Antarctic Historic Site and Monument, the stone hut built in February 1903 by C. A. Larsen, Norwegian captain of the wrecked vessel Antarctic of the Swedish Antarctic Expedition, led by Otto Nordenskjøld, and the grave of a member of that expedition.

This small island in the W Weddell Sea is normally the home to at least 60,000 breeding pairs of Adélie penguins. It is also the site of an historical hut and burial marker from the ill-fated Nordenskjøld expedition. The landing site is on the N central side of the island, and access is often impeded by ice. Anchoring is generally impossible because of the fast flowing ice and currents. Leopard seals often may be found offshore of the landing site. In normal circumstances, Paulet presents a very major challenge: the Adélies are tightly grouped and often difficult to access, especially when the beach is caked with ice, or later in the breeding season, when penguin chicks break crèche and move to the beach. In the 1994-95 austral summer, Paulet experienced a site-wide Adélie breeding crash, with many dead chicks strewn about and relatively small numbers of undersized chicks gasping for food. Normally, in mid-summer, this site is awash in chicks, guano, and mud. In the 1994-95 season, blue-eyed shags also failed. The causes for the abject breeding failures are unclear, although suspicions suggest krill stock fluctuations in the penguins’ and shags’ normal foraging areas or, because of a “high ice” winter, the penguins and shags found Paulet difficult to reach and were much delayed in starting their breeding cycle.

Landing Characteristics

Uncharted water near shore. Cobble landing beach on N coast may be packed with ice, depending on wind and swell. More visitor space on a low or falling tide; otherwise, space is very restricted. Landing beach difficult to negotiate when snow- or ice-covered or wet, and especially in January after Adélie penguin chicks break crèche and move seaward. Access inland is uphill and immediately places visitors in close proximity to nesting penguins. Late in the season, Antarctic fur seals may be present, and in large numbers. Historic Nordenskjøld expedition hut located inland above the landing beach, with an ovoid-shaped melt lake beyond and S of the hut.

Antarctic Site Inventory Effort

Visits by Antarctic Site Inventory researchers, 1994-2003:

1.    January 22, 1995        RN        Explorer

2.    November 30, 1995    RN LB        Explorer

3.    December 9, 1995    BH        W. Discoverer

4.    January 16, 1996        RN BH        Endurance

5.    January 31, 1996        RN BH        Endurance

6.    November 27, 1996    RN WT        Explorer

7.    December 1, 1996    RN        W. Discoverer

8.    December 31, 1996    LB        Hanseatic

9.    January 21, 1999        RN RD ST    Vavilov

10.    November 25, 1999    LB BP        Cal Star

11.    December 14, 1999    RN        Cal Star

12.    January 21, 2000        RN        Shuleykin

13.    December 11, 2000    RN        Cal Star

14.    December 25, 2000    SF LF        Cal Star

15.    January 9, 2001        SF        Cal Star

16.    January 26, 2001        RD        Cal Star

17.    February 2, 2001        RN        Cal Star

18.    December 11, 2001    RN SF CE    Endeavour

19.    December 21, 2001    JC LGC        Endeavour

20.    January 25, 2002        RD LS        Endeavour

21.    February 3, 2002        MM        Endeavour

22.    February 20, 2002    RN        Endeavour

23.     January 10, 2003        SF        Endeavour

24.     January 20, 2003        RD        Endeavour

25.     February 1, 2003        MM        Endeavour

26.     February 16, 2003    MB        Endeavour

Assessment and monitoring . The Inventory undertakes regular censusing of blue-eyed shags and specific Adélie penguin groups.

Fauna — Flora — Censuses

Penguins & flying birds. Adélie penguins, blue-eyed shags, kelp gulls, and snowy sheathbills are confirmed breeders. Both snow and Wilson’s storm-petrels commonly course the higher scree and are strongly suspected to be breeding. There is a noticeable paucity of skuas, spp.; none were found nesting and very few were observed harassing penguins. Kelp gulls also observed but it is unclear whether they actually nest on site.

Recent Adélie penguin census data reported in Woehler (1993): 60,000 A3, 1984.

Antarctic Site Inventory censuses:

Adélie penguin (“hut” colony)

216    C1    1995 Jan

502    N1    1995 Nov

447    N1    1995 Dec

559    N1    1996 Nov

609    N1    1999 Nov

458    C1    2000 Jan

522    N1    2000 Dec

472    C1    2001 Jan

373    N1    2001 Dec

252    C1    2002 Jan

238    C1    2002 Feb

573    C1    2003 Jan    

Adélie penguin (large colony contiguous to landing site, Nordenskjøld hut)

75,000       N2    1999 Jan

Adélie penguin (NE canyons, far removed from landing site area)

20,000-30,000    N3    1999 Jan

Adélie penguin (site-wide estimate)

95,000-105,000    N2/3    1999 Jan

Blue-eyed shag

432    N1    1995 Nov

326    N1    1996 Nov

360    N1    1996 Dec

377    N2    1999 Nov

291    N1    2000 Dec

265    C1    2001 Jan

297    N1    2001 Dec

273    N1    2003 Jan

524    C1    2003 Jan

Seals. Weddell seals and Antarctic fur seals have hauled-out on the landing beach, and leopard seals often may be found hunting offshore.

Flora. Xanthoria , spp. may be found on exposed slopes.

Conservation Aspects

Site sensitivities. Adélie penguins nest in large numbers and large, tightly packed colonies immediately above and uphill of the landing beach, on slightly elevated terraces surrounding the entire N coast, and on inland slopes and ridges; they are easily approached and disturbed, especially in November and early December when adults will be incubating eggs; subsequently, adults will be guarding and provisioning chicks at the nest, then in crèche. Adélie penguins also nest in steep, rubble-strewn canyons on far NE end of the island; they are not readily accessed, but are easily disturbed. Blue-eyed shags nesting on a basaltic, shoreline stack E of the landing beach and in a large, cliffside colony opposite this stack are easily approached and disturbed; in November and early December adults will be incubating eggs and, subsequently, guarding and provisioning chicks. Snowy sheathbills also nest on this basaltic, shoreline stack, and are easily approached and disturbed. Snow petrels and Wilson’s storm-petrels nest in loose scree on steep slopes inland and W of the landing beach. As the penguin breeding season winds down, Antarctic fur seals begin to arrive, crowding onto beaches and elevated terraces.

 Pointers for avoiding disruptions.

  1. Do not impede penguins’ access to and from the water.

  1. Walk slowly and carefully around nesting, crèching, or molting penguins.

  1. Walk slowly and carefully around nesting shags.

  1. Avoid and stay clear of penguins nesting in canyons on the NE end.

  1. Walk slowly and carefully around nesting sheathbills.

  1. Stay clear of — and do not hike upon or wander over — scree slopes and high ridges.

  1. When visitor space on the landing beach is restricted by high tide, ice, or swarms of penguins, strictly control landings by organizing guided, well spaced groups, all following the same path, and not allowing any free wandering.

  1. Avoid and stay clear of Antarctic fur seals, which should be given a wide berth and should not be approached.

Visitation Aspects

Numbers of tourist zodiac landings and participating visitors, 1989-2003:    

 

Zodiac  Landings

Participating Visitors

1989-90:

7

772

1990-91:

4

240

1991-92:

14

2,239

1992-93:

16

1,498

1993-94:

18

1,664

1994-95:

30

2,819

1995-96:

31

2,315

1996-97:

31

2,808

1997-98:

8

732

1998-99:

37

3,722

1999-2000:

49

4,230

2000-01:

19

1,905

2001-02:

38

3,357

2002-03:

21

1,916

14-Season Total

323

30,217

Proximate visitor sites . D’Urville Monument may be found to the NW at Joinville Island. Jonassen Island and Brown Bluff lie to the W, Seymour and Snow Hill Islands to the SW.